The liveliness or spring of' an anvil is much improved by mounting it on a wooden block, preferably made from a squared-up trunk of elm. It is a good plan to chamfer the edges of the square hole so that the hardy sits tight to the anvil face, this is also a convenience when using the hole for setting slightly curved bars. There are two holes in the face of an anvil the square or hardy hole and the round or punching hole. ire left sharp and it is advisable to round these offcarefully with a carborundum file or a portable grinder. On a new anvil the front and hack edges of the face. When cutting off with a chisel, the work should always be moved to the table before the final blow to avoid damaging the chisel edge. Anvil patterns may vary for different purposes, but for general work it should have a long and finely tapered bick as shown in diagram to the right which is a `London Pattern' anvil standing on a welded angle steel stand.Īlthough the face or top of the anvil is hardened, the bick and table, which is the square part between the hick and the face, are usually left soft. Working on a bad anvil is like jumping on a heap of sand, whereas working on a good anvil set on a proper foundation is like jumping on a springboard-the rebound from one blow helps towards the next.
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